The transformation at Gagliole in recent years is nothing short of remarkable. Once a poster child for super-extracted, powerful wines, today Gagliole has moved towards a direction that emphasizes much more finesse than in the past while retaining a forward-looking style that is all its own. The credit for that goes to proprietor Thomas Bär for his vision as well as the considerable investments in the land, facilities and equipment required to make that happen. Long-time winemaker Stefano Chioccioli deserves credit for pulling the throttle back and working much more gently with the fruit than was once the norm. Today, the Gagliole wines are modern, sexy and absolutely impeccable, with none of the heaviness of the past and plenty of racy, voluptuous contours. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2012 Gagliole, which had been bottled just prior to my visit.
From Chianti Classico 2013 & 2012: The Luck of the Draw (Sep 2015) by Antonio Galloni
Rubiolo Chianti Classico 2013
The 2013 Chianti Classico Rubiolo is a gorgeous entry-level wine from Gagliole. Soft, fleshy and expressive, the 2013 hits all the right notes, with vibrant red cherry fruit and fabulous balance. Silky tannins add to an impression of finesse, while attractive floral and spiced notes give the wine an attractive upper register.
Valletta IGT 2013
The 2013 Valletta is a blend of equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot from the Bär family’s holdings in Panzano, just a stone’s throw away from Rampolla. Black cherry, plum, lavender, mint and spice all meld together in an effortless wine endowed with a real sense of grace. Beams of supporting acidity and minerality give the wine its proportion while the oak is already nicely integrated for a young wine.